Tethers

These are short, from 4 to 6 feet long, lengths of tubular webbing with clips on either end that sailors use to attach themselves to a “Jackline”. (A strap that runs fore and aft the length of the boat.) They allow the sailors to work in something close to freedom while moving around the deck of the boat. There are many types of tethers but the characteristics that they most share are the following:

-A snap-shackle for attaching the tether to the PFD harness itself. (Spinlock tethers don’t and are still the most expensive)

-1-inch tubular webbing with a safe working load of 4000 pounds (often with an elastic core).

-A carabiner to attach to the Jackline that can be opened with one hand and will not open itself. I have found that Wichard “double action hooks” are much stiffer than other brands and Spinlock brand tethers don’t come with snapshackles as they are designed to only work with their band harnesses that include a quick release on the PFDs.

The snap-shackle allows the sailor to release the tether even when under load and should have a lanyard so that this can be done with gloves or cold hands. The tether itself is sewn with a special rounded tip needle so it doesn’t cut strands of the webbing while sewing. Some have sections designed to break some of the thread to absorb the shock of a fall overboard. The carabiner is what has been traditionally referred to as an “arborist carabiner” because of its one-handed operation and resistance to unclipping itself when tangled in other lines. The main difference between these and climbing carabiners is that marine carabiners have stainless steel springs that won’t seize up like their shoreside counterparts. Try and test a potential purchase with one hand and imagine performing the action with a cold gloved hand.

You can get double tethers with two straps and carabiners which are designed to allow the sailor to unclip a tangled tether or move past another sailor on the Jackline. I think that they are great but prefer two separate tethers with their own snap shackles. These, like the PFDs that they attach to work only when used. I would add that I require my crew to be clipped in at all times when offshore. Part of the reasoning here is that they are going to be awkward and take some getting used to. They will catch on hardware as you move around the deck. You want to know what those impediments are before it is dark, blowing the tops off the waves and your fingers aren’t working so well.

Shoes

You will never have to buy another canister and recharge kit for your PFD or bottle of whiskey for the crew for that matter if you don’t fall overboard.

…and you may fall in if you slip on the deck. Decks are slippery when wet and if you're doing it right they’re almost always wet. I have never had modern sailing shoes. I have always preferred the classic Sperry Topsider. Paul A. Sperry fell overboard in 1935 and patented the first sailing shoe in so you don’t have to as well. I have found them for as little as $9.95 at Goodwill.

You will need boots too they should have the same traction. If you are a hipster “sailor” from Port Townsend and insist on wearing Xtratufs be sure and pick out the gravel they like to collect before you board.

Headlamp

I have gone through many headlamps and the last time I bought one I told myself I would invest in a nice one because it’s such an important piece of kit. So important that in the past I brought two. After purchasing a Black Diamond “Waterproof” headlamp for 50 or so dollars I was sadly disappointed that it only made it through one pacific crossing. On the way back I wrote a little piece for 48 North about a few of the fundamental items for the offshore sailors kit. I gave my new fancy headlamp with its half-dozen light settings what would turn out to be a premature review. I sent it off via satellite 500 miles off the California coast and it didn’t last the rest of the trip…and I didn’t have a backup. I sent it in and they sent me a replacement which lasted about as long, saying that it was only waterproof in fresh water. I have resorted to carrying two cheap ones. As the U.S. Navy Seals say “one is none two is one”.

You need a light that goes red without cycling through white. You need to know where it is before it gets dark. If you don’t know where your headlamp is you won’t be able to find your other things. I keep mine on my lee cloth strap, on a bulkhead light fixture, around my neck, or in my butt bag. Turning on the lights below can harm the night vision of the helmsman or wake the relief watch early.

Update: I’ve been through a few lights since writing this and I’m now using an Exposure Lights R.A.W. PRO Edition headlamp and its the best I’ve ever used. 10-10-21

Personal Power Supply.

These days it seems that many of us have rechargeable everything. This is good because disposable batteries are bad for the environment; built-in rechargeable lithium batteries are awesome…However.

The average modern person brings a smartphone, smartwatch, Kindle, headphones, and tablet on a passage and they want to plug them in once a day and maybe more. There are not that many DC (12-volt outlets) on even the most modern boats. Remember that you are part of a crew of two to six others with as many or more gizmos to plug in. All these plus vape pens, c pap machines, and Bluetooth speakers will strain the patience of the captain not to mention the amp-hours of the boat’s batteries.

Theres good news though, they make awesome personal packs that have multiple USB outlets on them. You can ask the captain if you can charge it while the engine is running and there are extra amps to spare. You will most likely need a cigarette-to-USB adapter to charge it.

Ive used a few and I’m trying this one these days.